Domaine Philippe Livera (Domaine des Tilleuls)
Gevrey Chambertin; Cote de Nuits
Damien LIVERA took over the family domaine in 2005. Originally established by his great-grandfather in 1920, Domaine des Tilleuls, the estate had until a few years ago sold its production in bulk to the big Beaune negocient houses. Damien immediately set about upgrading and renovating the vineyards and winery, with a new winery operational from 2009.
Damien’s father, Philippe, began domaine-bottling several years ago, and this trend has continued under Damien with two-thirds of the production now being bottled under the domaine name. Quality has taken a quantum leap here and there are some stunning wines being made. Grapes receive a very light pressing, and there is relatively low lees contact. Racking is carried out following the lunar calendar.
There are two real gems in the range, firstly the Cote de Nuits Villages from vineyards in Brochon just on the north side of Gevrey is excellent value for money and has a style of a ‘petit’ Gevrey-Chambertin: that rich, powerful, dense fruit associated with this part of the Cote.
Secondly the real star is the Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Clos Village’ from vines immediately in front of the domain itself. Although classified as a village AOC, this wine surpasses many of the premier crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and being essentially a monopole of the domaine (the only other producer who has a small parcel sells off in barrel) it has a story and uniqueness to add to its appeal.
The Chapelle-Chambertin is made from a mere 3 barrels, planted in the early 1950’s. The vines lie immediately below the Clos de Beze.